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Thursday, December 30, 2010

First Christmas in Thailand

Central World looking down from the 6th floor
Well the Christmas season has been upon us. Unlike our experiences in living in North America, the fact that it was Christmas could easily be forgotten, were it not for the interest that has been generated in this foreign concept. Thailand is largely Buddhist in it's religious practices and beliefs. On previous trips, I recalled being in Bangkok on Christmas Eve in  a balmy 34 degrees Celsius and seeing one of the Christian churches singers, decked out in Olde English costumes, singing Christmas carols. Most of the local people watched in fascination at this procession, sometimes going through the go-go bar streets and bars with patrons at tables lined up three deep into the street.
In some cases, the look of horror on the faces of the singers was even more priceless as one of the bar pole dancers would wander out to the street to see what was happening. I never did see, but I would not be surprised if a local tout had approached them to see if they wanted in on the buy one get one free drink special at the lady ping-pong show.

It is also the time of the year that the Thai people celebrate three separate new years here. The first one being the world new years on January 1st, then there is Chinese New Year in January/February time period and then of course the really big new year party at Songkran time in April. So the gift baskets can be used for many different occasions.

On previous trips at this time of the year to Bangkok, I had been very impressed by the elaborate Christmas decorations and tree's. Coming from North America, I often said they needed to send some of the corporate people here to see how amazingly presented Christmas decorating can be. In my time in Toronto, Ottawa, Seattle, Portland Oregon and Vancouver at Christmas, I have never seen the decorated trees done as well as they do in Thailand. Last week I was in Central World- Bangkok, a very very large shopping complex, easily accessed by one of the best public transit systems in the world for the princely cost of 15 Baht ( 49 cents Canadian) or the all day rail pass for 120 Baht ($3.98 Canadian), no restriction and good until midnight . You may not know of Central World except for this past spring when it was on the worlds media as the shopping center set on fire during the red shirt protests in Bangkok. At the time to think of that facility burning was shocking, not only because of the mass destruction and resulting unemployment that act created, but also because it had been a favorite destination when in Bangkok. It was also a wake-up for me to see what to that point in time I had thought to be responsible news organizations, boldly screaming or reporting "Bangkok BURNING", of which nothing could be further to the reality there at the time.

I saw the ads in the airport when I arrived last week for Central World and found that in less than 7 months the facility was open and doing business. With the exception of the Zen store where workmen are frantically at work renovating, walking in you would never know anything had ever happened there. On a previous trip I had been fascinated with the Santa that repelled three stories up the Christmas tree and headed for that spot. I was happy to see that the tree was back on display. Towering three stories and every inch decorated, with life size characters around the base. Sadly no Santa, but instead from the 6th floor down were bells the size of a small refrigerator. Christmas songs throughout the center and large arched walkways outside adorned in Christmas decorations.

I did manage to see one Santa in Bangkok and he was the saddest Santa, in that he looked like he had been on the Biggest Looser Asia (Asia's version of the American TV show Biggest Looser). He may have weighted 98 pounds soaking wet. The Santa suit hung so loose it was almost as if it were pleated. The beard was wider than his head and of course a Thai Santa is brown skinned. We had a very special moment on Christmas Eve. I had returned to Phuket that morning and we went to a Christmas Eve dinner at a restaurant near to the airport, which allowed me to go and pick up our first Canadian guests since our move here. The crowd was a virtual united nations of people from many parts of the world. All of us had the common denominator of being expats in Thailand at Christmas. Our table guests came from the UK, Norway, Canada, South Africa, Central America and Australia. The restaurant is named Gitano and is a Thai/Mex food place, and the food is incredible, as evidenced by this write up: http://www.phuketobserver.com/gitano-reborn-a-new-venue-for-phuket-foodies/
The food was incredible, and way too plentiful. Then as we were into about course #4, in through the doors burst Santa! The reaction of the children was nothing short of priceless. Some of the kids burst into tears, others were struck riveted to their places, jaws dropped and literally vibrating. This Sanata had however had the presence of mind to stuff pillows where a belly would be, and he was truely a jolly jolly fellow indeed. He took a chair and chatted to each of the children and they all got a small gift. This proved to be somewhat problematic, as getting into the toilet took some timing in between those with the instant tattoo kits Santa had given them having to be applied this very minute. The atmosphere was electric and there were lots of laugh and animated chatter. Santa had certainly loosened up the crowd.

While I was away in Bangkok, Clive had the unusual experience of having two while men come to the gate in their suits. They were Christian Missionaries. They seemed to be scouring the back streets looking for non-thai's. We like to think it was to bring some Christian spirit to those living here in a predominately Buddhist country. He thanked them and told them of our Buddhist practice and they respectfully left.

Christmas display in Patong

Back in Phuket the stores were and continue to be all decorated. The usual Christmas standards are playing on the loud speakers or store sound systems. Local radio stations and television however there was a dearth of any indication that it is Christmas. I had become obsessed for some reason to hear Christmas music on Christmas eve day and it took some work, but Clive came through as a good techie can, and we managed to get internet radio and listen to those old standards. I must admit that dashing through the snow; let it snow, let it snow, let it snow; and baby it's cold outside, had little relevance to my reality, but it was a taste of the familiar and living here sometimes you need that. I have a friend that manages CC Blooms Hotel : http://www.ccbloomshotel.com/ and I could not resist calling him when they played the Hawaiian Christmas song, Mele Kalikimaka, which has very relevant lyrics to living in the tropics at Christmas, and holding the phone to the speakers so he could have a taste of his home at this time of year. I think he appreciated it.

Many of the stores still have the Christmas displays and sales. I read an article in the Guide magazine that had a very good explanation of Christmas in Phuket that I think sums up my experience in Thailand in general. Most Thai people, and indeed south east Asia, see's Christmas as a time of the year when there are really big sales in the stores. It has become a time to give people (not exchange) gifts in the spirit of giving and appreciation for each other.  To this end they have large hamper displays at the major department stores. The hampers also serve the purpose of being able to be used for New Year and Chinese New year as the contents are not Christmas or New Year specific. To my disappointment they do not contain chocolate, an essential part of my Christmas traditions anyway. No Baileys Irish Cream for the coffee on Christmas morning, and the coffee included is normally instant or the infamous 3 in 1 coffee they have here (ie: all powdered coffee,creamer and sweetener in one package). The baskets do not contain alcohol, primarily because of the inability to sell it during parts of the day. You cannot buy alcohol here before 11AM, between 2 and 5 PM or after midnight in any store, including the 7-11 store. So that would (pardon this pun) hamper the sales of hampers.

Christmas day was another beautiful sunny day with the palm trees swaying and the beach beckoning. I had to explain to the dogs that Santa did not come in his usual form, as firstly there are no chimneys and secondly he only comes to good dogs. And after the snake chasing incident, they tilted the scales to bad dog. Besides Ray and Ian had arrived after midnight on Christmas day with suitcases laden with the Costco size Denta Sticks, so that was plenty of Santa by any standard. Christmas dinner was a trip to PalHai beach restaurant for a feast of prawns and squid. We had bypassed the traditional stuffed turkey (and way too many other things) because cooking a turkey when it is 30+ degrees Celsius is not something I want to do. Secondly a 12 pound turkey costs about $125 Canadian. We had no tree this year, although we could order a live one from France at a costs of $300 Canadian.  We also passed on the numerous major chain hotels that advertise Christmas dinners and turkey buffets. If you need to have the traditional dinner, it is avaliable.

As I finish this I have found the Christmas pudding Sally-Anne (Clives sister) had made and sent to us in the back of the fridge, and we did manage to find some mincemeat pies, also tucked away, so this day before New Years eve, I think it is time for some pudding and tarts with tea.



Central World outdoor archways
 

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